Nursing the Shan
On a bamboo bed in a dark clinic at Loi Taileng, a woman sits with her three children. One has a severe foot burn, which is all infected and ugly looking. It is very common for children in the rural villages to be burned when cooking pots overturn on the fire at the center of their hut. At the Loi Taileng temple there is a young monk who was horribly disfigured by similar burns which cover his face and head. A health worker explained to me that in the villages burns are often treated with a poultice of cow dung or with oil, both of which worsen the effects of the injuries.
By Antonio Graceffo
20 June 2008
The children sit on a single bamboo bed, beside their mother
all day. They have no toys, no TV, and no books, nothing to occupy them at all.
They just sit, in sad quiet, waiting for the head nurse, Paw Surgay to bring
them their next free meal. The mother had a tremendous tumor on her right arm
which was all white and discolored. The tumor itself was visible through the
skin. It was the size of a lemon.
Paw Surgay tells me that the woman is
HIV positive and suffering from advanced stages of TB. They are planning to
surgically remove the tumor, but have to wait till the woman's other infections
are under control.
Head nurse and chief of station since 1999, Paw
Surgay from the Karenni tribe, told me that when she first came to the Shan
State Army (SSA) headquarters at Loi Taileng there was no clinic. “There was a
home with some medicine and no staff,” she explained. “There were a few
untrained medics who tried to help people.” Since taking over the clinic, Paw
Surgay has invested, each year, in training more and more medical staff. Most
receive their training at Dr. Cynthia’s clinic in Mae Sot.
Paw Surgay is
one more bright face that we find amidst the rubble of the war in Burma. She is
a yuong, attractive woman, who has dedicated her intelligence and diligence to
helping others live. In this conflict, perhaps the most remarkable fact about
Paw Surgay is that she isn't even Shan, she is Karenni. She was able to let the
question of race disappear and see the sick and needy simply as people.
“In
the beginning we didn’t have any support for medicine or equipment. I relied on
small organizations like Partners NGO. to help support what I was doing.” Paw
Surgay went on to explain that she couldn’t pay the medics so Free Burma Rangers
(FBR) and Partners helped her get started. The current clinic at Loi Taileng was
built in 2003. The location was chosen because it was closer to water. In recent
years, a foreign engineer put in a water line, which pumps water 300 meters
uphill and operates on solar power. “It always works,” remarks Paw Surgay. “They
said it couldn’t be done, but it works now.”
The story of the water
system is yet another miracle in a land of darkness. The engineer who built the
system is a an absolute genius with engineering systems and particularly with
anything related to water. Using hand held GPS devices and other scientific
equipment he conducted a geological survey to find the best way to build his
uphill water pump. I had a chance to meet him, while he was planning plumbing
for Lt. Philip's house. He was one of those geniuses who just exists on some
other plane of reality. Things were obvious to him which whole teams of mediocre
geniuses would miss. When I asked him how he wound up with the Shan, he told me
that he chose a worthy location and group of people. He then does private fund
raising to get money or equipment, then he flies in and builds the water system.
He had done similar projects with other ethnic groups throughout Burma and
elsewhere.
“The hospital used to be down by the stream, but it was not
good because pregnant women and injured people couldn’t walk down to it.” said
Paw Surgay. Now, because of the brilliant irrigation system, the hospital is at
the top of the hill. This position will protect the patients from monsoon
flooding and from malaria. “The first two clinics were built complete of bamboo,
but it wasn't good because it became moldy in rainy season. Everything,
equipment and medicines would be destroyed.”
Eventually, the current
structure was built entirely of wood.
Among its many functions, the
clinic at Loi Taileng, under Paw Surgay, runs a vaccine clinic once per month.
They get a small stipend from a small charity to do this. “It costs about $300
per month,” said Paw Surgay. “All maternal care providers are trained by Dr,
Cynthia. Dr Cynthia also does all of the lab work.” The clinic treats between
700 - 800 outpatients and 40 inpatients per month. This inccludes the nearly
1,000 orphans, 350 refugee families, and several thousand soldiers living on the
base, as well as villagers who come to the base because it is the only hospital
within a month's walk in the jungle . The most common health complaints are:
acute respiratory, urinary tract, and skin infections. In rainy season there are
a lot of fungal infections and skin infections. These are simple infections, but
because they don't get treated they get much worse. In dry season respiratory
infections are high because of the dust and jungle pollen that people are forced
to inhale. inhaling things.
“The base doesn’t have big problem with malaria
because it is high and cool. The people who live in the villages, however, come
here with malaria. People who live here don’t usually contract it,” explained
Paw Surgay. “Last year, we treated 11 HIV/AIDs patients. Three of them
died.”
HIV is a growing concern in Shan State and much of Burma. At Loi
Taileng, the medics first do a rapid test. If it comes up positive, they do two
more. If all three are positive, then the patient is sent to Dr. Cynthia for
blood work. “No patients pay anything. Even in-patients don’t pay anything, not
even for their food.”
One more reason to respect Paw Surgay is how
responsible she is with the hospital's finances. She keeps careful track of all
of the donation and expenditures.
Opening her meticulous financial
books, Paw Surgay showed us that it only cost 3,000 Baht ($100 USD) per month to
feed ALL the patients. It was amazing what they could do for very little money.
The total annual budget was only 600,000 Baht For 10,000 patients.
The
small hospital does everything from baby birthing to surgery. There is, however
no real dentistry. They do extractions for the children if their teeth are badly
rotted. Referring to the woman with the tumor, Paw Surgay said, “We want to
operate on it, but it is too hard now. So,we will wait till it gets soft and
then cut it out.” She had already started the patient on a regimen of medicine
that would soften the tumor.
A male patient, a long term resident of the
ward, also has AIDS. “They have no home to go back to. We will try and find
financial support for them. Maybe we could build a house for them behind the
hospital.”
The two HIV patients were being treated with antibiotics only,
no retrovirals or HIV medicines.
“They are treating the symptoms but not
that actual illness,” said a visiting foreign medical aid worker. “They can't
afford to buy antivirals so they use an antibiotic.”
The foreign nurse
explained that if the immune system is low, the patients get infections. “So,
you treat the infections. But once the white blood cell count gets very low,
then you can't really treat the them anymore. The immune system goes down over
time, the longer they have the disease.”
She told me that she believed
the tumor was caused by an extremely advanced case of TB, which would suggest
that the body had completely lost the ability to fight off infection. This woman
was close to death. Operating on her in such primitive conditions seemed a very
risky prospect for all those concerned. The risk of cross contaminations seemed
very high.
I was at the Loi Taileng clinic as a guest of Partners NGO,
which was founded in 1994 by Steve Gumaer and his wife. They had made a back
pack trip to refugee camp and started. “In 1994, we made a thirty dollar
commitment to save a child for a whole year,” explained Steve who was appalled
at how little it cost to save a life and how much money is wasted annually in
the West.
“There are millions of refugees,” said Steve, meaning there was
still a huge need for help. In Thailand, one camp alone was home to 140,000
refugees. The people in the first camp Steve visited were Karen, a group that
has been fighting against the Burmese junta for almost 60 years.
“There
are a few million in camps and a few million scattered around. The SPDC forces
people out of villages and makes life impossible. So, they run to camps in
Thailand or inside of Burma or elsewhere. I found out that thirty dollars would
pay for school, food, and housing for one child needed to survive. A woman who
had been raped and tortured for several months by the Burmese army asked us to
tell our friends in the West and ask them to help. So, in 1995 we started a
newsletter called Partners and used that to start helping people.”
Today,
Partners has four programs: relief for displaced people, a child welfare
programs, which is helping 1500 children, and education and child welfare inside
of Burma, and also training in IDP communities. The new areas they are working
in include post traumatic stress and trauma therapy. “We also added capacity
building animal husbandry and irrigation.
Steve and the Partners are
saints for the help they have given the ethnic minorities of Burma. Paw Surgay
is a national treasure and deserves some type of major award. Dr. Cynthia is
gem, her hospital and health care programs have helped countless thousands over
the years. FBR, the water engineers, and the Shan, Karen, and Karenni people are
all worthy of praise for their tireless resisance to the junta and for
constantly putting the needs of others ahead of their own.
Together, all
these people, and more, are nursing the Shan. Please remember them in your
prayers.
Antonio Graceffo is a freelance journalist in Asia, who has
been embedded with the Shan State Army. See his website speakingadventure.com
contact him at antonio@speakingadventure.com
Checkout Antonio’s website
http://speakingadventure.com/
Get Antonio’s books at amazon.com
The Monk from Brooklyn
Bikes, Boats, and Boxing Gloves
The Desert of Death on Three Wheels
Adventures in Formosa

